Thursday, August 17, 2006

Chinese character

It is Chinese character - said RONG LI , and, as if wanting to prove it, a bag full of apples appeared with an encouraging nod urging me to take it. As if helping me to get out of a godforsaken place called Tangshan was not enough a proof for local generosity. For a seemingly easy task of travelling around provincial China sometimes turns out to be challenging even for the natives. Rong Li, whom I briefly met on the train, was extremely effective - after a dozen phonecalls, one wrong station and a taxi escort I got on the bus to Panjiakou and the driver was given instructions concerning the destination of my trip (Great Wall submerged in Panjiakou reservoir) along with all other personal information that I had revealed to Rong Li so far.
The bus was wobbling around on a dirt road with a skating elephant's grace while CI LU , who had been appointed my Guardian Angel by Rong Li, was entertaining me with some information on the local infrastructure. In fact, it was a conversation lead by his phone - on its screen appeared some of the most interesting English phrases I've ever seen so far generated by a mobile dictionary. Our Chinglish chat was regularly enriched by Ci Lu's wife, who had to be texted every single sentence either of us managed to produce, which resulted in a Chinese homemade dumplings feast. My chopstick skills were put to test by Ci Lu's mother - beaming with smiles she unloaded the fridge's contents onto the table and with an encouraging gesture pointed at less and less 'grippable' dishes. Unlike most of low-mid-range restaurant chopsticks that even rice sticks to, the home edition can be quite massive and horribly smooth which makes eating a real challenge. Thus I provided my hosts with a highly entertaining 'veg-drop in the soup' and 'peanut plate chase' performance.
Close encounters with the natives are unavoidable in China since a foreigner is still quite conspicuous and classifies as 'valuable goods'. Not always for his financial dimension though. Visiting less touristy places usually means great show for the whole local community. A symphony of delighted "HELLLLOOOOs" can be heard almost everywhere and you will always run into an English geek asking you "WHERE ARE YOU FROM?" with a cheerful "Lao Wai!" (foreigner!) in the background. Same applies to provincial hotels - staff members from manager to cleaner throng around the reception making it look as if there has just come a Polish-guided Chinese tour. I experienced such phenomenon in QING DONGLING (Eastern Ming Tombs) both in the MAO-style hotel lobby and the restaurant. Mass WAITRESS invasion got even to my room.
Privacy or personal space is a relative term in China, treated mostly as some kind of impoliteness rather than basic need. Thus I had to get used to "train snuggling", staring, communal Lonely Planet China guide reading (often having the book 'borrowed' to have a better look)and endless marital/child status enquiries.
I have come to accept the fact that in China it is not possible to melt into the crowd. A tourist will always be a tourist...

PS. Have a look at the GALERY
Great Wall experience coming soon.

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